Dean's Climbing Adventures Update
9th November 2011
What's Dean been up to ?
April 2012 - Everest Base Camp trip
NAMASTE ! - A fantastic trip leading 26 clients from St Andrews Hospice to Everest Base Camp in Nepal. Everyone made it to EBC. This still remains one of the best high altitude treks in teh World, starting in Khatmandu, flying on to Lukla in the Himalayas and then journeying up the Khumbu valley. Well done to everyone reaching EBC and more importantly raising money for such a great cause. Dhanyabaad !!!
Jan 2012 - Alps
Just returned from a great week of ice climbing in Val D'Cogne in Italy and then a few days skiing at Les Houches near Chamonix with Darryl Morgan. Ascents of Patri, Cold Couloir and Lillaz.
Unfortunately the huge snowfalls over the last few weeks stopped any plans we had of doing some high mountain routes (highest snow fall record in Chamonix since 1999 !). 2012 looks set to be an amazing season across the Alps.
Dec 2011 - Tignes
A great few days skiing at Tignes Les Brevierres. Snowed every day and despite the visibility we had fresh powder skiing every single day. What a start to the season !
October - Kilimanjaro
Ubari Jambo !!! Another successful trip to Kilimanjaro in October as Lead Guide for the Irish Heart Foundation expedition. 21 out of 25 clients made the summit via the Machame route. Congratulations to all in raising money for a much needed charity. Check out the video from the trip.
Chamonix September 2011
Fit and acclimatised after guiding the Tour of Mount Blanc, I headed up to the Torino Hut on the Italian side of Mount Blanc for an attempt on the Trident du Capucin with friends Nick & Dan. However a late start and poor weather ended up with us retreating half way up this classic alpine rock climb.
A few days later, success was on the cards with an ascent of the famous 'Frendo Spur' on the North Face of Aguille du Midi with Dan. This has been a dream of mine for many years. After planning to bivvy half way up this route, once on route we decided to keep going and go for a fast ascent. After topping out at the end of the day, this meant a uncomfortable but safe nights sleep in the cable car station before returning to Chamonix early next morning.
Alps Summer 2011
A few weeks Guiding the Tour du Mont Blanc this summer with St Andrews Hospice was an awesome trip. Fantastic weather and a great bunch of people. A big congratulations to all 17 clients from Glasgow who completed this tour of the Mount Blanc massif through Switzerland, Italy and France.
May - Bolt clipping in Spain
A week of sun, sand and sports climbing on the Costa Blanca.
This area just 1hr from Alicante offers fantastic sun drenched sports climbing at venues such as Toix & Sella for climbers operating at grades 6a+ to 8a
March 2011 - Summit of Kilimanjaro !
A last minute booking to lead a team on Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania went extremely well. A 100% success rate with all clients making the top.
A Big congratulations to 11 very motivated trekkers (most of whom had never even been to the top of Snowdon, let alone Africa's highest summit). Despite what you hear and see in the press, or which TV Stars have done it, this summit is tough. Want to know how hard it is - Just go do it!
Dec 27th 2010 - Wow, The ice has stayed, but it's warming up and looks as if it'll melt out by tomorow. A group of us just squeezed in the classic Virgin Falls in Blaenrhondda this morning. Steep first pitch and a lot of running water.
Dec 2010 - Some great Ice about at the moment. Went out and did Joes waterfall and torpantau during the week. Could this be another great winter for welsh icefall climbing ?
April 2010. Well it has been a really busy winter through 2009/10. Not much rock climbing, but there's been some great winter climbing out there. What was arguably the best winter climbing conditions N.Wales has had for over a decade. It would have been 'rude' not to get involved !!
Armed with a certain Mr Gwylim Wilkins (of S.Wales ale sipping notoriety) we managed to bag many a classic route in Cwm Cneifion as well as the Uber classic 'Cascade' on Craig Y Rheaedr.
Then it was a quick few days in Cogne, Italy with my mate 'Ginger' Mathews, where we grabbed some great routes including the impressive and massive route of Cold Couloir. Grazzi, Chao!
Winter continued early March with a call from Ali up North 'aye up lad', claiming the 'Ben' was in amazing condition. Sceptically I agreed to make the 10hr drive north that evening on the promise of a bed in the CIC hut. Surely as claimed, conditions on the North side of Ben Nevis were indeed impressive. Bagging impressive ascents of the classics Orion Face Direct & Point Five gully.
The 'rogue' pitch - Point Five >>>
Orion Face Direct >>>
Finally in April I managed
to finish my final assessment in Samoens-France to pass my International Mountain Leader award. A long time coming !.
A Dream of White Horses - Gogarth >>>
